Our mission is to solve all our clients lawncare issues they are facing, our local businesses knows the Grand Strand, we are a local business with no franchise fee due each month to some nationwide lawncare chain, what that means to our customers is, we keep our overhead low, and pass the savings on to you, your not just a number to us, you have our friendship, and we share this community as neighbors. We have an extensive portfolio of services to help you facilitate the changes, you would like for us to achieve your visions and optimize the aesthetics of your landscape. Get in touch to learn about how we can help maximize your success for curb appeal.

We are proud to have an exceptional team of consultants with expertise in a variety of areas. Our team is committed to strategically solving your challenges using the latest technology and resources, combined with our creative and collaborative approach. Meet some of our passionate and talented professionals today.

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Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance offers so many lawn care and landscaping services that this blog could not cover them all, so I will attempt to keep this brief in hopes that it will help with your preparation for Spring and Summer. I choose Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance as my go to expert on the below information, their company is one of the fastest growing lawn care and more business's in Horry County, South Carolina, their clients are among some of the elite in the Myrtle Beach area. I have picked Mr.Wests' brain for horticulture and garden tips to make my yard the very best it can be, he has help my lawn go from a sorry sight for sore eyes to one of the most beautiful in my neighborhood. Mr. West has told me with a few more years (3) that i should with out a doubt have the best in the neighborhood, aka yard of the month, 12 months out of the year. Mr. West of Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance has a wealth of knowledge to help improve your home's appearance also. Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance usually has a main focus on organic treatments, yes, Mr. West also knows his synthetic fertilizer applications also, he has stressed that organic building of your lawn turf / soil is the most important thing you can do to have a happy and healthy lawn. Observing any out of the ordinary conditions of your lawn can help provide a early treatment for correcting any problems. Such problems may include but are not limited to diesease , fungus, color changes in plant material (grass and etc) pest problems, drought conditions, weeds and the list goes on and on.  Mr. West of Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance provides a lawn care service that elminates all the worry for their customers. Mr. West says if your lawn care service company has not done a soil sample test in the past 3 years you should be concerned that your yard is not getting all the attention it needs. Mr. West says that a soil test can reveal a lot about what your lawn needs and wants to be healthy.

GRAND DUNES LANDSCAPE AND MAINTENANCE 
contact information : 

630-D Chestnut Road

Myrtle Beach, SC 29572

All mail send to:

P.O. Box 30806 
Myrtle Beach, SC 29579
(843) 450 -2953
 

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     1. A Soil Test sample to determine your starting point to a better lawn.
A Soil Test is a process by which nutrients are chemically removed from the soil and measured for their plant available content within the sample.  The quantity of available nutrients in the sample determines the amount of fertilizers needed for a particular crop.  A soil test also measures pH and the amount of acidity within the soil to determine if lime is needed and how much should be applied. A soil test should be conducted if fertilizer is going to be applied or when problems occur during the growing season. Once every year is recommended when nitrogen fertilizer is applied, and at least once every three years if P and K are concerned.Soil samples can be taken any time throughout the year for checking pH, phosphorus and potassium status.  Collect soil samples 1-2 months before planting. Early spring is a good time to take soil samples for summer, and summer is a good time to sample for fall and winter.  This allows time for lime recommended to react with the soil and change the pH before the crop is planted. To assess soil available nitrogen, sample as close to planting as possible. For Lawns, the late spring (May) is a good time sample for warm season grasses. Soil kits can be purchased online, or by contacting your local county extentions. Once you have determined your soils needs, now is the time to start making a plan to correct soil conditions, organically or with synthetic treatments. Mr. West says to take this part slow, do not rush into treatment, as it is easier to add nutrients and etc verses trying to remove them, when you start correcting the right deficiencies first the others may fall in the correct parameters, including but not limited to PH balance, freeing up minerals and nutrients that may be trapped in the soil and not available to the grass until these problems are corrected. Feel free to call Mr. West at (843) 450-2953 to have Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance help you determine the right steps to take at this point in creating a better lawn. 

     2. Top Dressing with Organic Matter at the correct ammount and height. 

Top dressing is the process of applying compost, soil, or sand over the surface of your lawn. It has been performed on golf courses since the sport was invented in Scotland, but has only recently become popular on home lawns. South Carolina was the first State to every have a golf course, even before South Carolina was a State, that is right, when it was still a colony. One of the reasons, Golf is so popular still in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina and through out the State.

Good soil is living soil. That may sound like a cliche, but it's true. One tablespoon of soil can contain billions of microorganisms. These microscopic organisms are one of the reasons we have plants and trees. In nature, soil microbes enrich soil by converting fallen leaves, limbs and other debris into nutrients plants can use. Since many home lawns have poor quality soil, top dressing becomes even more important. Top dressing is simply a way of adding organic material and restoring the balance to home lawns, building better soil and increasing soil flora. Top dressing with the right organic materials can help reduce the need for fertilizer. When top dressing lawns, you will gain the best results when it is combined with other cultural practices. Such as Core Aeration and Composting. 

 

     3. Warm Season Grasses aka Southern Grass types and Maintenance (3 most popular)

 

Centipedegrass Maintenance Calendar

February Through May

Centipedegrass is a slow-growing, apple-green, coarse-leaved turfgrass that is adapted for use as a low maintenance, general purpose turf. It requires little fertilizer (one to two pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year), infrequent mowing, and will tolerate moderate shade if it receives at least four hours of full sun, daily. It does not tolerate traffic, compaction, high phosphorus soils, high pH, low-potassium soils, excessive thatch, drought, or heavy shade. See  for additional information on care and varieties.

Mowing: Mow lawn at one inch at the time of initial greenup. Mow before grass gets above 1½ inches tall. Do not burn off centipedegrass to remove excessive debris because of possible injury to the lawn and potential fire hazard. For more information on mowing, refer to Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance.

Weed Control: To control crabgrass, goosegrass, and other annual weeds, apply preemergence herbicides when forsythia are in bloom. Approximate times are March 1 in the coastal and central areas and March 15 to 30 in the piedmont/mountain areas. Apply postemergence herbicides in May as needed for control of summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds, such as knotweed, spurge, and lespedeza. Do not apply until three weeks after greenup. Centipedegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such as 2,4-D. Follow label directions and use with caution.

Thatch Removal: Power rake (vertical mow) to remove thatch in late May if necessary. A 2- or 3-inch blade spacing set ¼ inch deep in one direction works best. Do not use a power rake with a 1 inch blade spacing as severe turf injury may result.

Insect Control: Inspect for white grubs by cutting three sides of a one foot square piece of sod and laying it back to reveal the root zone. Control if necessary.

Fertilization: As stated, centipede lawns should receive 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per year, per 1000 square feet. The higher rate may be chosen for those desiring optimum aesthetics. Also, it may be needed if the lawn is growing in sandy soil or in an area with a long growing season, such as near the coast. Applying more than 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet, per year can be harmful to the turf.

Apply ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in late April or early May after lawn fully greens up. A soil test will help determine if a 16-4-8 or a 15-0-15 fertilizer is best for your lawn. A yellow appearance may indicate an iron deficiency due to soil temperatures lagging behind air temperatures. Spraying with iron (ferrous) sulfate (2 ounces in 3 to 5 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet) or a chelated iron source will help to enhance color. Lime may be added if a soil test indicates a need. To determine amount of product required to apply ½ pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, divide 50 by the first number on the fertilizer bag. This will give you the number of pounds of product to apply. 

Irrigation: Water to prevent drought stress. Centipedegrass grows best with about 1 inch of water per week. In the case of no rain, apply ½ inch every three to five days. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering; e.g., ½ inch every third day. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest and non-pest problems later in the summer.

During dormancy, water to prevent excessive dehydration. This is especially important if warm, bright days precede days forecasted to be in the low 20's or lower. 

Renovation: Replant large bare areas in May using sod, seed (¼ to ½ pound per 1,000 square feet) or sprigs (5 bushels per 1,000 square feet). Mixing seed with 2 gallons of fine sand per 1,000 square feet will aid in distribution. Germination is expected in 28 days and establishment is slow. To ensure good germination, keep the seedbed moist with light, frequent sprinklings several times a day. It is not uncommon for it to take three years for a new lawn to become uniform and dense.

June Through August

Mowing: Mow lawn at 1½ inches. Mow before grass gets above 2 inches tall.

Fertilization: Always fertilize and lime based on a soil test. Established centipedegrass should not receive phosphorus fertilizer unless a soil test indicates that it is needed. Fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet before August 15, using a high potassium fertilizer such as 15-0-15. A yellow appearance may indicate an iron deficiency due to excessive phosphorus and/or a high soil pH. A long term approach is needed to correct either cause, but iron can be added to quickly enhance color. Spray iron (ferrous) sulfate at the rate of 2 ounces in water per 1,000 square feet.

Insect Control: Check for white grubs, spittlebugs, mole crickets, and others. Control if necessary.

Irrigation: Water to prevent drought stress. Centipedegrass grows best with about 1 inch of water per week. Sandy soils often require more frequent applications, such as ½ inch of water every third day.

Weed Control: Apply postemergence herbicides as needed for control of summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed and spurge. Use sethoxydim (such as, Arrest or Segment herbicides) to control grassy weeds such as crabgrass and goosegrass. Centipedegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such as 2,4-D, so follow label directions and use with caution. Do not apply herbicides unless grass and weeds are growing actively and are not suffering from drought stress.

September Through November

Mowing: Mow lawn at 1½ inches and before grass gets above 2 inches tall. Raise mowing height to 2 inches several weeks before expected frost.

Fertilization: Do not apply nitrogen at this time. Lime may be added if recommended by a soil test. Potash can be applied to enhance winter hardiness if a soil test indicates low levels of potassium. Apply 1 pound of potash (K2O) per 1,000 square feet, 4 to 6 weeks before expected frost, using 1.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0-0-60) or 2 pounds of potassium sulfate (0-0-50).

Irrigation: Continue to water to prevent drought stress. After lawn has become dormant, water as needed to prevent excessive dehydration. This is especially important if warm, bright days precede days forecasted to be in the low 20's or lower.

Insect Control: Check for white grubs and control as necessary.

December Through February

Fertilization: Do not apply fertilizer at this time. Submit soil samples every three years to determine what nutrients, other than nitrogen, are needed. Apply lime or sulfur as suggested by a soil test to raise or lower soil ph respectively.

Weed Control: Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary for control of chickweed, henbit, and others. Centipedegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such as 2,4-D, so follow label directions for reducing rates and use with caution. Selected herbicides (e.g., atrazine) can be applied in November or December for control of annual bluegrass and several winter annual broadleaf weeds.

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Bermudagrass Maintenance Calendar

This calendar of suggested management practices is designed to be a general guide in the care of your bermudagrass lawn. Many factors such as location, soil type, and microenvironment will affect the performance of your lawn. For these reasons, the following management practices and dates may need to be adjusted to suit your particular home lawn conditions.

March Through May

Mowing: Bermudagrass performs best when mowed between ¾ and 1½ inches. Begin mowing as soon as the lawn turns green in spring. Always leave the clippings on the lawn in a practice called 'grass-cycling'. Grass clippings decompose quickly and do not contribute to thatch. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings begin to clump, they can be collected and used as mulch. 

Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet several weeks after complete green-up. Submit a soil sample to determine nutrient and lime requirements. In the absence of a soil test, use a slow-release, complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf fertilizer with a 4-1-2 ratio such as16-4-8. Apply lime if suggested.

To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 16-4-8 fertilizer, divide 100 by 16. The result is 6.25 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet (100/16 = 6.25 of 16-4-8).

Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50 percent of the lawn shows sign of wilt. Probe with a screwdriver to ensure the top 4 to 6 inches of soil are moist following irrigation. Do not irrigate again until the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermudagrass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1 ¼ inches of water. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering, for example, ¾-inch of water every third or fourth day.

Weed Control: Apply preemergence herbicides to control summer annual weeds when forsythia or redbuds are in full bloom. Apply postemergence herbicides in May as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. Be sure that the product is labeled for use on bermudagrass. Postemergence herbicides are applied when weeds are present, and at least three weeks after the lawn has greened up.

Thatch Removal: Vertically mow in May to remove the thatch after the lawn becomes green, but only if the thatch is more than ½-inch thick. After dethatching, irrigate with ¾ to 1 inch of water. Fertilize with 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet if the lawn has not already been fertilized.

Renovation: Replant large bare areas using sod or sprigs (3 to 5 bushels per 1,000 square feet). Common bermudagrass can be seeded using hulled bermudagrass at 1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Do not seed hybrid bermudagrass lawns with common bermudagrass. Use sod or sprigs of the existing hybrid instead.

June Through August

Mowing: Bermudagrass performs best when mowed between ¾ and 1½ inches.

Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet every 4 to 8 weeks.

Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermudagrass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water.

Insect Control: August is the best time to control white grubs because they are small and close to the soil surface. Mole crickets will begin to hatch in June. Use a soap flush technique to determine if mole crickets are present. For details on the soap flush technique, feel free to goolge that information or call Grand Dunes Landscape and Maintenance.

Weed Control: Apply postemergence herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial weeds.

Thatch Removal: Vertically mow to remove the thatch if it is more than ½ inch thick. It normally is best to vertically mow in spring whenever possible.

September Through November

Mowing: Mow the lawn between ¾ and 1½ inches until several weeks before the first expected frost. Raise the mowing height by ½ inch as winter approaches if the lawn will not be overseeded. Mowing height is usually raised in mid to late September in the Piedmont and early October in other areas.

Fertilization: In September, if a soil test reports deficient potassium (K) levels, apply 1 pound of potash (K2O) per 1000 square feet, using muriate of potash (0-0-60), potassium sulfate (0-0-50), or Sul-Po-Mag (0-0-22).

Irrigation: Irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermudagrass needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water. Dormant bermudagrass may need to be watered periodically when dry, warm, windy weather prevails.

Weed Control: Apply preemergence or postemergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. Preemergence herbicides are most effective when applied as nighttime temperatures drop into the upper 50s. Preemergence herbicides do not control existing perennial weeds. Apply postemergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Do not apply herbicides designed to control annual bluegrass if the lawn is to be overseeded with ryegrass.

Insect Control: Continue to monitor for white grubs and control if necessary.

Overseeding: Overseeding with ryegrass for winter color should be done in mid September in mountain and Piedmont areas, and early October in coastal areas.

December Through February

Mowing: Mow overseeded bermudagrass at 1 inch before the grass gets taller than 1½ inches. Do not collect the clippings unless they accumulate heavily on the surface. Dormant bermudagrass that has not been overseeded need not be mowed.

Overseed Fertilization: Do not fertilize bermudagrass that has not been overseeded. Apply ½ pound of N per 1,000 square feet in December and February to overseeded bermudagrass.

Irrigation: Dormant bermudagrass may have to be watered periodically to prevent desiccation, especially when warm, windy weather prevails. Watering is particularly important for lawns that have been overseeded.

Weed Control: Apply broadleaf herbicides as needed to control winter weeds such as chickweed, henbit, and hop clover. Selective herbicides can be applied in November or December to lawns that have not been overseeded to control annual bluegrass (Poa annua) and several winter annual broadleaf weeds.

St. Augustinegrass

 

St. Augustinegrass (Stenotaphrum secundatum) grows best during the warm (80 to 95 °F) months of spring, summer and early fall. It grows vigorously during this time and becomes brown and dormant in winter.  It is considered to be native to the coastal regions of the Gulf of Mexico and the coastal regions of the Mediterranean. 

This grass has large flat stems and broad coarse leaves somewhat similar to centipedegrass. It has an attractive blue-green color and forms a deep, fairly dense turf. It spreads by long, above-ground runners or stolons. While it is aggressive, it is easily controlled around borders. It is planted by vegetative means, including sod, sprigs or plugs.

St. Augustinegrass is the most shade-tolerant warm-season grass, although it still needs 4 to 6 hours of sun to thrive. It is very susceptible to winter injury, especially if planted farther west than Columbia. There has also been documented winter injury along the northern coastal regions of South Carolina.  Despite the chance for winter injury, it is well-suited for the coastal plain and has a fair tolerance to salt.

St. Augustinegrass is considered a high maintenance turfgrass. On sandy soils, you can expect to fertilize monthly during the growing season with fertilizer applications every 6 weeks on clay soils. Read all Manufactures labels for specific fertilizer recommendations. Supplemental iron applications along with micronutrient supplements may be needed on soils with a high or alkaline pH.

St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at the recommended mowing heights or at a height where scalping is not an issue. Mowing St. Augustinegrass too short will stress the turf and cause it too thin. Mowing too high will result in a thatch problem and disease issues as the lower grass canopy will tend to stay wet. A rotary mower can be used but must be sharpened monthly to maintain a healthy turf. If the tips of the grass blade look torn after mowing as opposed to cut, it is time to sharpen your mower blade.

St. Augustinegrass should be watered as other turfgrasses. When irrigating, apply ¾ to 1 inch of water. Allow the turf to thoroughly dry before irrigating again. Localized dry spots can be hand watered as needed. Automatic irrigation systems should be set to manual and run when needed as long as someone is there to monitor the turf.

Perhaps the greatest disadvantage of this grass is its sensitivity to an insect, the chinch bug. Chinch bugs can cause extensive damage to St. Augustinegrass if not controlled early. Most of the improved cultivars of St. Augustinegrass are also susceptible to several turf diseases including large patch and gray leaf spot. Both insect and disease problems can be successfully managed by implementing recommended cultural practices and pest monitoring. For more information on disease control, please understand that Brown Patch & Large Patch Diseases of lawns and Grey Leaf Spot on St. Augustine Grass need to be addressed as soon as they are found. 

Weed control can also be a challenge when growing St. Augustinegrass. The control of grassy weeds using a postemergent herbicide can be difficult as the choice of a labeled herbicide is limited. This leads grassy weed control to be largely limited to a preemergent herbicide program. Broadleaf weed control is a bit easier using one of the broadleaf weed control products. The limitations to these herbicides are the heat of summer (>90 ºF), and the sensitivity during spring green up time. 

There are several cultivars of St. Augustinegrass available in South Carolina. The differences between the various improved cultivars are their ability to resist pest, tolerance to environmental stresses, management inputs and their growth habits. 

The cultivars below are grouped according to their mowing height. As a general rule, standard cultivars should be mowed to a height of 3 to 4 inches with the dwarf cultivars being mowed to a height of around 2½ inches. Use the higher mowing height under shade and stress conditions and the lower height in full sun under ideal growing conditions.

Cultivars

The more common standard St. Augustinegrass cultivars are Raleigh, Palmetto, Mercedes, Bitterblue, Floratam, and Jade. The more common dwarf cultivars of St. Augustinegrass consist of Captiva, Delmar Seville and Sapphire. Some cultivars are commonly grown in South Carolina, but others may be more difficult to find.

Floratam is an improved type of St. Augustinegrass with reddish stolons (runners). It has a very coarse texture and poor cold and shade tolerance. It will thin in direct relation to the amount of shade received. Its winter and early spring color is lower as it goes into a deeper semi-dormancy period and sheds its leaves more than other cultivars. Spring green-up is also slow. Floratam is one of the preferred cultivars to plant in open sunny areas.

Raleigh is a cold-hardy cultivar that can be grown throughout most of South Carolina. It has a medium green color with a coarse texture. As with most St. Augustinegrass cultivars, it is susceptible to chinch bugs and brown patch disease. During peak summertime heat, Raleigh has been noted to yellow and not spread as aggressively as during cooler temperatures. Supplemental iron applications are needed to reduce this yellowing tendency, especially on soils that have a high or alkaline pH. Raleigh is best adapted to heavier, organic, clayey soils with a medium to low soil pH, although adequate drainage will need to be present to prevent disease problems.

Palmetto St. Augustinegrass was developed in the mid-1990s in central Florida. It is sometimes considered a semi-dwarf cultivar having a shorter growth habit and shorter internode length. It is tolerant of light shade but will thin under heavy shade and shows no resistant to St. Augustinegrass pests.

Mercedes is a newer cultivar that has a finer leaf texture than the other St. Augustinegrass cultivars. It has good cold tolerance and good shade tolerance.

Bitterblue is an improved selection of St. Augustinegrass that was selected for its finer leaf blade texture, darker blue-green color and better overall density. It has fairly good cold and shade tolerance. It is susceptible to the common pest problems and is not tolerant to some of the herbicides used on St. Augustinegrass.

Jade has good shade tolerance, a semi-dwarf growth habit and dark green color. It is susceptible to chinch bugs, sod webworms and brown patch disease and is cold sensitive.

Captiva is also a relatively new cultivar developed by the Florida Agricultural Experiment Station. It is one of the slower growing St. Augustinegrass cultivars having a dark-green color with short, narrow leaf blades. Captiva does show better resistance to Southern chinch bug than other cultivars, but is not resistant. As with many of the dwarf varieties, Captiva does better in shady conditions than the standard varieties.

Delmar is another semi-dwarf cultivar with a shorter growth habit and shorter internode length. It has a darker green color and better cold tolerance than the standard cultivars. Delmar is susceptible to chinch bugs, sod webworms and large patch.

Sapphire has the common blue-green color with a folded leaf blade giving it a fine textured appearance. It is susceptible to the common St. Augustinegrass pest problems.

Seville is also a semi-dwarf cultivar that was selected for its finer leaf texture. It can handle lower mowing heights due to its compact growth habit.  Seville is susceptible to the common St. Augustinegrass pest problems. It is also a shallow rooted cultivar that is prone to a thatch problem.  Seville is also sensitive to cold temperatures.

 I hope these Lawn Care tips help you in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina and the surrounding area.